Adventures from a Traveler’s Notebook
by Lisa C. Cantwell
Warm and blooming, April lures us outside to take in all the wonders of spring. This month, I’ve chosen a holy site. Far more than a destination, it is a place that invites contemplation, with scenery that delights both city-bound and nature-lover alike. Civil War buffs will also be drawn to this secluded place along the Shenandoah River, seemingly a world away in time, but only 57 miles from Thurmont.
Holy Cross Abbey and Cool Spring Farm, Berryville, Virginia
I found this peaceful place three years ago, when searching for a quiet place in the country from which to write for a few days. A friend recommended it to me, and even though I’m not of the Catholic faith, I knew that some monasteries welcomed the public to stay overnight, attend service, walk the grounds, and even take meals in the dining room. Holy Cross Abbey is such a place. Located on 1,200 farmed acres along the Shenandoah River, just outside Berryville, Virginia, Holy Cross offers lodging and meals in their comfortable Monastery Retreat House. A simple, but clean, single-occupancy room, with a private bath and a view requires a $50 deposit. Rates are determined by you, as the donor, but an offering of $150-$300 for the weekend is suggested. It costs the monks $75 per night to operate the retreat house. Three daily meals and snacks are included, complete with flavored honeys and fruit cake, with just a hint of brandy, made by the Cistercian monks who live there. The only stipulation is that meals must be taken in silence, and quiet within the retreat center is appreciated. I didn’t find the “shhhhh” aspect of the place awkward at all, and I had plenty of opportunity to visit with other guests while on walks about the grounds.
These recollections from my travel journal highlight the “why” of such a getaway:
“I had such joy walking through the quiet of the monk’s cemetery and woods. Lured on by the site of an old barn and silo in the distance, I took a dirt path all the way to the river bottom, past cornfields, Angus cattle, and a show-stopping cast of birds, like red-wings, meadowlarks, bluebirds, cardinals, and Baltimore orioles. Near the river bank stood an old frame, Federal-style home, once proud, now abandoned, but still awash in faded yellow paint. I stood and watched it glow there as I could go no further, its approach entangled in vines and brush. I tried to imagine who lived there and how many boats they waved to, going up and down the Shenandoah. An old orchard, barn, smokehouse, and springhouse spoke of a vast amount of time the family must’ve spent gathering and preparing. I took photos of the Blue Ridge Mountains at sunset, the river sparkling at last light. I said aloud, “Oh, you beautiful farm!” I pray it’s here forever, but the number of monks these days is small, there are few converts.
Besides the pastoral setting of the farm, another lure of this place is history. Cool Spring has been farmed since 1730, and was the site of a significant Civil War battle in 1864. The manse, built in 1784, still stands and houses a spare interpretive exhibit of the Battle of Cool Spring. The second floor of the house contains a collection of tools and arrowheads made by Native Americans found on the place. Although there is no marker on the farm that commemorates the battle, there are several in the region, the nearest being on the Castleman Road approach, off Rt. 7. According to the Civil War Trust site, over 13,000 Union and Confederate soldiers clashed on July 18, 1864, at Cool Spring Plantation over attempting to cross the Shenandoah River. The commanders were Major General Horatio G. Wright, Union, and General Jubal Early, Confederate. The battle was considered a Confederate victory, although both sides suffered similar numbers of casualties: 422 Union troops fell, compared with 397 Confederate troops. The house is open to the public.
Another possibility for a new experience while visiting the Abbey is a rare view into monastic life. Although the quarters of the monks are private, and they are mostly silent, guests are invited to attend scheduled services in their church throughout the day and night. Holy Communion is offered to Catholic guests at the services. The monks pray five times daily, six times on Sunday, beginning at 3:30 a.m. A beautiful, yet unadorned chapel is open in the retreat house for guests who desire independent contemplation. There is also a library for guest use.
The last attraction of Holy Cross Abbey is its gift shop. A barefoot monk in a plain brown robe will greet you and help you choose the perfect icon, statue, baked goods, flavored creamed honey, or my favorite, a brandy-fused fruitcake. I was never a fruitcake fan until I savored a piece made by these humble monks. Store hours vary, so check the website. For more information about Holy Cross Abbey and Cool Spring Farm, visit their website at www.virginiatrappists.org/retreat-house/ or call 540-955-4283.
Outdoor Chapel, Holy Cross Abbey.
Visit “Cool Spring,” a historic home on the grounds.
Take a walk along the banks of the Shenandoah River that borders the abbey.
Photo by Lisa Cantwell
Perched high above the Shenandoah Valley, on a ridge where the Appalachian Trail (AT) earns the nickname, “The Rollercoaster,” is a historic lodge that serves as a hostel to hikers. Bear’s Den, as it is known, is about an hour drive from Thurmont and is near the Virginia quaint towns of Purcellville, Upperville, and Berryville. In addition to the AT, there are six trails that offer short hikes, no more than two thirds of a mile in length, with spectacular views. My favorite trail is the overlook on the AT (pictured), that offers a sunset panoramic view of Winchester, VA, Front Royal, VA and Charlestown, WV. The fascinating lodge was built in 1933 by a Washington doctor and his wife, who was an opera singer. They traveled to Europe and designed their summer retreat to resemble a medieval castle, complete with a turret, tower, and a grand room. The lodge has rooms available for overnight stays this time of year, as AT through-hikers are rare until spring. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy (ATC) owns Bear’s Den, while the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC) manages it. In addition to the lodge, a rustic cottage can be rented and there is a primitive campground for the more adventurous of winter wanderers. Of course, day-use only explorers can wander the grounds until the parking lot closes at 9:00 p.m. A $3.00 fee is charged for parking lot. Should you decide to stay overnight, linens and bedding are provided in the main lodge and a kitchen is available for your use. Frozen pizzas, snacks, beverages, and pancake mix is stocked, should you choose not to bring groceries. When we visited and sought a bacon and egg breakfast, we found several friendly cafes to choose from in nearby Berryville, VA. The lodge has an extensive library, as hikers have left their favorite books behind for fellow off-the-beaten-trackers to relish. Consider an overnight reservation so you can put your feet up in the grand room after a few hours of hiking. I read by the crackling fire in the stone hearth there, while my husband chatted with other guests. Bear’s Den is an informal and welcoming place, but party animals beware, as strictly enforced “quiet time” begins at 9:00 p.m. Keep in mind that this is a hostel and unless you specify a private room, another guest could climb into the overhead bunk. There’s little privacy during the summer, as the lodge is often full of weary hikers. Lastly, Harper’s Ferry is a mere 20.5 miles away via the AT. A shuttle is available to return to Bear’s Den, but that is a challenge best reserved for warmer weather, at least for this hiker. This beautiful spot is approximately 60 miles from Thurmont and is indeed, a trip worth taking! For more information about day use and lodging rates, visit the website at bearsdencenter.org or call 540-554-8708.
Perhaps you are acquainted with this lovely 600-acre park in nearby Adams County, Pennsylvania, that features ten miles of well-maintained hiking trails through a gently rolling, diverse ecosystem. School children and adults in the area have enjoyed the nature center and many programs offered by this non-profit preserve for over thirty years. But did you know that with seven trails to choose from, this is a wonderful place to cross-country ski? I have a friend who swears that this is one of the best places to cross-country ski in the region. And, did you know there is a two-bedroom vacation cabin available for a two-night minimum stay? Private and cozy, it sleeps five and has all the amenities and appliances of home, to include a washer and dryer. Linens and towels are also provided, and the kitchen has pots and pans, plates, and silverware. If you decide to enjoy a weekend of cross-country skiing or hiking, there will be plenty of warmth for après ski in this 815-sq. ft. accommodation with electric heat and propane back up. If a Yankee clipper blows in, don’t worry, there’s TV/DVD and WIFI to keep you entertained. What’s truly wonderful about reserving the cabin is that the proceeds from the rental are used for environmental education at the preserve. Activities will pick up in late February and early March when the annual Mt. Hope Maple Madness festival occurs, and pancakes are consumed smothered in maple syrup tapped from the preserve’s trees. Until then, lace up your hiking boots or snap on cross-country skis and explore the winter wonderland of Strawberry Hill! This is a trip worth taking so close to home! There are no fees to visit the nature center or to hike trails. but donations are appreciated. A brochure with a detailed map of all trails can be downloaded and cabin reservations can be arranged on the website, strawberryhill.org. For additional information, call 717-642-5840.
